Frequently Asked Questions
Practical answers on designing in the 3D Studio, downloading STL files, choosing screw thread tolerances, and printing custom saber hilts without supports.
SaberCraft provides instant-download digital STL files and complete ZIP bundles generated from your custom saber build in the 3D Studio. Nothing is shipped in the mail—you slice and print the parts on your own 3D printer or through a local printing service.
You can buy any individual part on its own ($1.90 USD) or unlock the Complete Saber Bundle (ZIP, $9.90 USD). The bundle includes every selected hilt section ready to sit flat on your build plate with modular screw threads, plus any matching pommel joiner stud, dual-bladed center coupler, turbine blade plug, side quillons, and 4-piece blade.
Designing and previewing custom sabers in the 3D Studio is free and requires no sign-up. Creating a free account lets you save builds across devices and re-download your purchased STL files anytime from your Account page.
Yes. Every print-ready STL sits upright on a flat base with self-supporting overhang transitions and print-friendly screw threads. Keep supports turned off in your slicer so internal threads and hollow cores stay clean. For tall, narrow parts, adding an outer brim is all you need.
0.25 mm (Standard) works best for most calibrated FDM printers (Bambu Lab, Prusa, Voron) using PLA+, PETG, ABS, or ASA at a 0.16–0.20 mm layer height. Choose 0.15 mm (Tight) for resin printers or finely tuned 0.12 mm FDM layers. Choose 0.35 mm (Loose) for older printers, 0.6 mm nozzles, silk or carbon-filled filaments, or if you plan to prime and paint the threads.
Every hilt part fits easily on compact printers—the main hilt outer diameter is Ø41 mm and the tallest hilt grip sleeve is 92 mm tall. Even the full-length blade is split into 4 screw-together segments (~165–172 mm tall each), so a 180 × 180 × 180 mm printer like a Bambu A1 Mini or Prusa Mini can print the entire saber.
For sturdy hilts with crisp screw threads on an FDM printer, use PLA+, Tough PLA, PETG, or ASA at a 0.16–0.20 mm layer height, 3–4 wall loops, 4–5 top and bottom shell layers, and 20–25% gyroid or cubic infill. Silk metallic PLA looks great for display builds—just hand-tighten gently, since silk PLA has softer layer bonding than PLA+ or PETG.
For a dual-bladed saber, print two matching hilt halves and join them at the center with the double-threaded center coupler. For a crossguard saber, the blade emitter includes two side sockets that take upright-printed side quillons and two screw-in side blades—everything still prints vertically with zero supports.
Yes. Every blade emitter, choke neck, upper extension, activation switch, hilt grip sleeve, and pommel cap uses the same modular screw thread system. Any part you print today will twist smoothly onto compatible parts you print later.
All downloaded STL files come with a personal-use print license: you can print as many physical copies as you want for your own collection, cosplay, or gifts. Reselling, sharing, or re-uploading the digital STL files is not allowed. If you run a prop shop and want a commercial print license, reach out on the Contact page.
Still have a question about your build or 3D printer?
Ask Crafty in the bottom-right corner or send a message through the Contact page.

